So what is the main focus of this article?

“Dogs & Children” helps give teaching techniques for dogs and their relationship with children. Dr. Ian Dunbar explores these techniques by giving simple rewards for the dogs when they are around children and listing ways to help children act around them. Remember no child should be left unattended around a dog and if you have more questions regarding this article please contact us. We love to hear from you.

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According to most pet shelters, more dogs are lost on the 4th of July than any other holiday which results in an increase of dogs coming to the shelters and owner heartbreak due to a lost pet.

So how can you help your dog overcome the fear of fireworks?

The post Dogs and Fireworks appeared first on Compatible Companions Dog Services.

When it comes to desensitizing a dog to being left alone one must understand what is going on with the dog. Separation anxiety is a specific syndrome that includes a constellation of behaviors that occur only when the dog is left alone.  These behaviors include destruction, vocalization, and elimination. Often it is the exits and entrances to the home that the dog targets for destruction.  There may be intense drooling, constant barking, whining, howling, or pacing. 

This progression was written out for a client whose dog became destructive and howled when she went to work, so all the indicators that are mentioned (keys, purse, briefcase, etc.) were specific to her situation.  Each person will have to adapt the program to the specific stimuli that trigger anticipatory anxiety for each particular dog. 

The most important step and the one that most people forget is to make certain the dog is highly invested in the Kong before stepping away and to return before the dog loses interest in it and starts to worry about where you are.  If you don’t wait for this to occur, you will simply teach the dog to dislike the stuffed Kong because it signals your departure.

The process teaches the dog to look forward to being left alone!  This is contrary to the nature of dogs as pack animals.  So, it must be done slowly, paying careful attention to the dog’s behavior.  To be successful, it must be gradual enough that the dog displays no anxiety throughout the progression.

The same sequence may be used with dogs who do not have full-fledged separation anxiety, but merely seem to be uncomfortable when you leave.  In those cases, the progression usually goes much more quickly. 

Try this sequence of steps when you are not leaving the house:

1. Hand him the stuffed Kong, wait for him to get into it, and walk 5 steps away from him.  Return immediately and take the Kong back.  Repeat 5 times.
2. Hand him the Kong and walk 10 steps away from him.  Return immediately and take the Kong.  Repeat 5 times.
3. Hand him the Kong and walk to the next room, out of his sight.  Return immediately and take the Kong.  Repeat 5 times.
4. Hand him the Kong and walk to the next room, out of his sight.  Wait 10 seconds and then return and take the Kong.  Repeat 5 times.
5. Hand him the Kong and walk to the next room.  Wait 30 seconds, return and take the Kong.  Repeat 5 times.
6. Hand him the Kong, pick up your keys, purse, briefcase, whatever you usually do before leaving, return immediately, take the Kong.  Repeat 5 times. 
7. Hand him the Kong, pick up your stuff, walk 5 steps away, return and take the Kong.  Repeat 5 times.
8. Hand him the Kong, pick up your stuff, walk 10 steps away, return and take the Kong.  Repeat 5 times.
9. Hand him the Kong, pick up your stuff, walk to the next room, return immediately, take the Kong.  Repeat 5 times.
10. Hand him the Kong, pick up your stuff, walk to the next room, wait 10 seconds, return and take the Kong.  Repeat 5 times.
11. Hand him the Kong, pick up your stuff, walk to the next room, wait 30 seconds, return and take the Kong.  Repeat 5 times.
12. Hand him the Kong, pick up your stuff, walk to the front door, turn the doorknob, return, take the Kong.  Repeat 5 times.
13. Hand him the Kong, pick up your stuff, walk to the front door, turn the doorknob, wait 10 seconds, return, take the Kong.  Repeat 5 times.
14. Hand him the Kong, pick up your stuff walk to the front door, turn the doorknob, open the door, return, take the Kong.  Repeat 5 times.
15. Hand him the Kong, pick up your stuff, walk to the front door, turn the doorknob, wait 10 seconds, return and take the Kong.  Repeat 5 times. 
16. Hand him the Kong, pick up your stuff, walk to the front door, turn the doorknob, wait 30 seconds, return and take the Kong.  Repeat 5 times.
17. Hand him the Kong, pick up your stuff, walk to the front door, turn the doorknob, step outside, return immediately and take the Kong.  Repeat 5 times.
18. Hand him the Kong, pick up your stuff, walk to the front door, turn the doorknob, step outside, wait 10 seconds, return and take the Kong.  Repeat 5 times.
19. Hand him the Kong, pick up your stuff, walk to the front door, turn the doorknob, step outside, wait 30 seconds, return and take the Kong.  Repeat 5 times.
20. Repeat the same sequence, increasing the time to 45 seconds.  Repeat 5 times.
21. Repeat the same sequence, increasing the time to 1 minute.  Repeat 5 times.
22. Repeat the same sequence, increasing the time to 1 and a half minutes.  Repeat 5 times.
23. Repeat the same sequence, increasing the time to 5 minutes.  Repeat 5 times. 
24. Repeat the same sequence, increasing the time to 10 minutes.  Repeat 5 times over several different training sessions. 
25. Repeat the same sequence, increasing the time to 15 minutes.  Repeat 5 times over several different training sessions.

Thus, each numbered step represents a distinct training session.  Please don’t attempt to go through the sequence in a few sessions!  However, you can do as many as three sessions in a day, with several hours in between each.  Do no more than 5 repetitions of each step in the same session.  Be sure that the dog is calm at each level before progressing to the next step.

Finally, calm departures and arrivals, as well as regularly scheduled periods of interaction when your dog can count on attention from you, will go a long way to helping you solve the problem, too. If you still have questions understanding how this type of training works please contact us or follow us. Also, check out our last month’s article post featuring changing a dog’s behavior using science instead of myth.

The post Desensitizing A Dog To Being Left Alone appeared first on Compatible Companions Dog Services.

So what is the main focus of the article?

 “Moving Beyond the “Leader of the Pack” explores the perceptions of dogs and their relationship with training and dominance. Dr. Reisner breaks down dogs’ behavior by addressing dominance beliefs, intimidation-based training, dog-centric training, and their consequences. If you have more questions regarding the principles set in place in the article please contact us. We love to hear from you.

The post “Changing Dog Behavior Using Science Instead of Myth” appeared first on Compatible Companions Dog Services.

Cause of submissive urination

Submissive urination has its roots in a puppy’s early experiences with its mother.  The mother is a very dominant figure to a young puppy.  She also controls his elimination for the first several months of his life.  By the time the puppy is several weeks old, the mother is prompting elimination by merely approaching him and nosing under his flank.  Most dogs outgrow this puppy elimination response as they mature, but some dogs retain this response to urinate, particularly under stressful conditions.  When excited, intimidated or fearful, the submissive urinator will resort to the puppy response of emptying his bladder.

Control of submissive urination

First, identify the things that trigger the dog to urinate.  Often it is your homecoming, when you scold the dog, when you lean over the dog or when you approach or face the dog.  The first step is to remove any signs of threat at those key times when the dog wets.  By modifying your behavior, you should be able to get the dog to stop wetting.  The time required will be anywhere from a few days to several months, depending on your skill and the severity of the problem.

If the dog wets when you approach, then do not approach.  Instead, crouch right down and turn your side toward the dog.  Avoid direct eye contact. Let the dog approach you.  If the dog appears calm, pet him lightly under the chin.  If petting produces wetting, try it again in a few days.  Avoid talking to the dog in the situations that produce urination.  As the dog’s confidence builds, you can begin to add words spoken in a gentle, soft tone. Try “good dog”.  After a few days of this routine, ask the dog to “sit” and then tell him “good dog” when he complies.  If this stimulated wetting, withhold it for a few days and then try it again.

Run through the situational training at least several times a day.  For instance, if your homecoming produces submissive urination, follow the above outline described, then go out and come in immediately again…then again. This desensitization should help eliminate the behavior over a period of time.  As the dog gains confidence, see if you can approach him in a standing position instead of a crouch.  Let the dog’s reactions tell you how to behave. If you see that tell-tale squat start in the back, back off a step and start over until you can again proceed.

Involve others in the program.  Have family members or friends go through the same routine as described above.  When several others have gone through it with the dog, it will greatly benefit the permanency of the correction. If backsliding occurs, just start over again at the beginning.  Correction should only take a few sessions.  Throughout the program, be patient and understanding.  Your dog can sense your mood and will react to it accordingly.

Additional tips

1. Scheduling.  The submissive dog will be more secure when he knows what to expect.  Put him on a regular schedule and stick to it.  Feed and exercise him at the same time every day.

• Consistency.  Be consistent in your expectations of the dog.  Always treat him fairly.  Make sure everyone in the family does the same.

• Don’t get angry.  Submissive urination is an involuntary response to fear or excitement.  He’s not “getting even” or trying to annoy anyone.  Being calm and ignoring it works much better than yelling.  Be calm and reassuring but do not baby the dog.  This can cause wetting too.

• Obedience training.  Once the dog has rudimentary control over his bladder, he will benefit from obedience training.  Call Compatible Companions (254-394-6968) for information on locating a training class to suit you and your dog.

The post Submissive Urination in Dogs appeared first on Compatible Companions Dog Services.

Dogs go through separation anxiety when their owners leave the house. Don’t let your dog tell you when to do anything. You tell him when he can be petted, up on the bed, go out the door, play with the toy, etc. This puts you as the leader and he will respect that. If you are a fair and consistent leader he will have no problem adjusting to when you leave or for how long you’re gone. Below I discuss ways to help limit separation anxiety for your dog.

Systematic desensitization

Start by going into another room with a baby gate up. He can see you but can’t get to you. If he barks or whines keep your back to him. When he is quiet you turn towards him but keep your eye contact away from him. Walk towards the gate, then into the room he is in, still ignoring him. Practice this a few times then up the criteria by going out of sight for a second or two. Next, use the door instead of the baby gate. Go into that room, close the door and wait 2 seconds then open the door and go back into the room that the dog is in. Remember to avoid eye contact for a few seconds after you rejoin him. The next time, up the time frame to 5 seconds that you are out of sight, either with the door closed or the baby gate up. Then the next time make it only 2 seconds then 8 seconds, then 3 seconds, then 10 seconds, then 5, then 6 seconds, then 7 seconds, then 4 seconds, then 10 seconds, etc. Add that all up and you’ve worked for one or two minutes including the time you are back with the dog ignoring him.

Practice this in every room in the house

Vary the length of time you are gone. Then do this with the back door (or the door that you don’t normally leave for the day from). Also do this with any gates you have in your yard.

Practice your whole “leaving for the day” routine

Get up, let the dog out, do your morning “get ready for work” stuff. Take a few minutes to play with him. Try to get him tired. Then continue with your routine all the way to go out the front door. Come back to the house after 1 minute and ignore the dog. Sit down for a few minutes. Then get up, grab your keys, purse, coat, etc., and go back out the front door. Come back in after 2 minutes. Repeat this until you can get up to 10 minutes with you outside. Remember to vary the time frame and not make it continually longer and longer. Put some very short times in between the longer ones.

Walk around in the house holding a dog toy

Show him you’ve got it and be very excited that you do have it. Just before you leave, ask the dog to do something (sit, down, etc.) then give him the toy. This transfers his excitement from you to the toy.

Always ignore the dog

When you first come home for about 5 minutes. Then talk to him in a low-key manner.

Don’t feel guilty for leaving the dog

He will be fine. Don’t act any differently with him just before you leave than if you just stay at home. If you get all excited, change your tone of voice, or anything different he will change too. He will be worried when you leave and he will be anticipating your homecoming with hyperactivity.

Make sure you give your dog plenty of exercises and mental stimulation.

Play training can help a lot in making the dog less dependent on you. If you have more steps and techniques on how to handle dog separation anxiety please contact me. You can learn more about dog separation anxiety

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As the Twig is Bent, So Grows the Tree!

The earlier the better as far as helping your family dog and your child form a good relationship.  Young Jennifer’s future outlook on dogs, in general, will be influenced by the interactions which take place with her family pet.  Spot’s outlook on children, in general, will be affected by Jennifer’s actions. The following information will give you some ideas for helping your child and your dog coexist successfully.

Introducing your dog to infants.

The key to infants and dogs getting along is supervision, supervision, supervision.  Dogs and babies should not be left alone together.  Most dogs get along just fine with infants, but why not do a little advance preparation to make sure the meeting goes smoothly and the family lives happily ever after!  Dogs that might cause concern are those which are spoiled, those which guard toys and food, those which are prey and chase oriented, dogs that are high in energy and out of control, and those which have demonstrated dominant or aggressive tendencies.

All family dogs, however, should be obedience trained.  If a baby is expected, work with the dog to be sure he can reliably sit and lie down on command, stay when told, come when called, and walk on a loose leash.  Sit especially will be invaluable.  Sit and stay for attention instead of jumping up on people should be well established.  Your ability to send the dog to a specific target area, such as a special rug, and have the dog remain there until release will be very helpful.  A dog obedience class instructor can help you with this training sequence.  Be sure your dog realizes that you are the leader, the decision-maker.  Earn your dog’s respect and obedience with inductive methods.

If anything in the dog’s lifestyle will changes, it should change before the baby comes home.  For instance, if the dog is not allowed into the baby’s room. Now is the time to start boundary training the dog.  Go into the room, tell the dog to sit-stay or send him to the target area.  You might simply teach the dog not to cross the threshold into the room.  Make staying outside of the room very special and good.  This is a time to give the dog a treat such as a Nylabone spread with peanut butter or a Rubber Kong toy stuffed with goodies.

Get the dog used to the baby before the baby comes home.  Set up your crib and changing area ahead of time.  Get a teddy bear or doll and place it in the crib.  A few times a day take a couple of seconds to go over to the doll.  Sprinkle some powder or rub some lotion on the doll to get your dog used to these new activities and smells.  If your dog likes to play ball, have some balls nearby and toss a ball for him while attending to the baby.  If your dog is food-oriented, a container of freeze-dried liver, raisins, or processed cheese nuggets could be available and one or two given to the dog while you attend the doll.  In this way, the dog starts to associate a pleasant state of affairs with the baby equipment.  Get a tape of an infant crying play it while the dog eats, or during other times your dog is happy.  If the baby is born in a hospital, you can bring home a blanket that has the baby’s scent on it.  Wrap the doll in it and allow the dog to investigate this novel smell.  Be happy and praise the dog.  Get the dog used to doing a brief sit-stay and then release to sniff the “baby”.  Much praise should occur.

Baby Jennifer’s homecoming

It’s a girl!  It’s been decided that Grandpa will carry baby Jennifer into the house instead of Mom. Spot may be so glad to see Mom, he might forget his manners and jump up, causing ill feelings or endangering Jennifer.  Even if this doesn’t occur, Mom might be nervous and Spot might be sensitive to that and worry too.  Mom will greet Spot, but not make such a fuss that the dog becomes overly excited.  Allow Spot to sniff Jennifer all over unless he’s too excited and out of control.

The important thing to remember in the first days together is that Jennifer should produce attention and happiness to Spot.  You can accomplish this with little effort.  For example, when Mom changes Jennifer, tidbits or balls can be tossed to Spot.  An apron with big pockets will be handy!  Or have a jar of treats or balls ready on the changing table.

When the baby cries, follow the same procedure, or at least praise and pet your dog on the way over to pick up the baby.  Mom should speak softly and loving to Spot while holding Jennifer.  Allow spot to be nearby for an occasional pat.  Once the positive association is made, it will be less and less important to take these steps.  Relax and enjoy, but supervise your growing family.

Introducing your Dog to Toddlers.

Beware!  When Jennifer begins to crawl and walk the situation changes and supervision is very important.  Never leave toddlers alone with a dog even though the dog has been friendly and tolerant toward the child.  A poke in the eye, a trip, and fall into the dog, a loud scream into the dog’s ear could produce an orienting reflex that might make the dog whip around and knock the baby over.  Or worse, the child’s actions might cause the dog to snap.  Spot should have an area of his own– a bed, a crate, an easily identified space.  It should be easily accessible to the dog, close to family activities, but out of the traffic pattern.  Spot can escape to this area when he wants to be left alone.  Respect this.  Jennifer must be kept away from Spot’s “safety” zone.

Introducing Dogs to Young Children.

The mistake most parents make is to allow children too much freedom to interact at will with the family dog.  Some common but inappropriate actions are running and screaming and throwing themselves at the dog.  Hugging from behind.  Blowing at the dog’s face, playing tug of war, and hand teasing by pushing and shoving at the dog’s face are not good games.  Telling the children to stop is not enough.  Teach them some good games to play with the dog:

• Mom or Dad can hold Spot while Jennifer goes into a different area to hide.  Just like Lassie or Rin Tin Tin, Spot can go on a search and rescue mission and find Jennifer.
• Adult supervised retrieving is fun if Spot gives the ball up nicely.  A ball on a rope is convenient.
• Mom and Jennifer can call Spot back and forth for portions of his meal.
• High energy dogs can get even more exercise by jumping over a small barrier or through a hula hoop in the middle of the recall path.  Rules for the game: At first until the dog understands, the jump can be placed in a doorway with one person on each side, so the dog has no choice but to go through.  The jump should be no higher than halfway from the floor to the dog’s elbow.  The floor should be covered with a nonslip surface.  This game should also be a math lesson for the children–no more than ten jumps during a play session!

What About Other Dogs?

Appropriate interactions with the family dog are a fine place to start, but now is a good time to teach children how to interact with dogs that belong to their friends and relatives and dogs which they might encounter on the street.  Jennifer should realize that MOST dogs are like MOST children, MOST of the time, but there are a few rules to follow:

How to Prevent-A-Bite

The most frequently bitten people are children.  Usually, the bite is not from a stray dog, but the child’s own dog or one he knows such as Grandma’s or the neighbor’s.  The following concepts will help prevent accidents.

• Don’t go into a dog’s yard.
• Don’t reach into a dog’s car.
• Don’t bother a dog while he’s eating.
• Don’t bother a dog while he’s sleeping.
• Always ask permission before going up to a dog, even if you know him.
• If the owners say it’s OK, extend your hand and show the dog your knuckles.  If the dog stretches forward to sniff or seems friendly you can pet him.
• The best place to pet the dog is on the side of the head or under the chin or on the chest.  Don’t pet on top of the head or back of the neck.
• If the dog pulls back and acts afraid or acts angry, don’t pet the dog.
• If you encounter a dog that seems very angry, stand like a post.  Posts don’t run, they don’t make any noise.  They just standstill.  The dog will likely sniff you and go away.

Want to check out more information on how to introduce dogs to children check out the article by doghealth.com. Finally, a well-socialized and trained dog can adjust to any situation. Call or email: Sandy at 254-394-6968 or ceo.sandy@compatiblecompanionsdogservices.com.

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Socializing is one of the most important roles of a new puppy owner. Puppies’ brains develop considerably from 6 weeks-16 weeks of age.  Therefore, the importance of socializing the new puppy is critical as the puppy learns a lot about their world.  It is a unique window of time that will impact the puppy for life. Socialization is the process by which your puppy is exposed to as many facets of life as possible.

Puppies that are well-socialized are more secure adults and more adaptable adults.  If nothing else is done, the most important thing a puppy owner can do is expose the puppy to as many things as possible.  To be beneficial, these exposures must be positive.  

Puppies should be exposed, in a positive or neutral way, to as many things as possible.  Negative experiences that occur during the socializing window can affect a puppy for life. Some recent research suggests that puppies need to be exposed to things several times over the socialization period.

Below is a list of items the puppies can be exposed to this not everything a new puppy can be socialized to but its a great starting point.

You can find more information and tips on how to socialize your new puppy from the American Kennel Club. However, if you still have any questions about socializing your new puppy or want help with training please contact me today.

The post Socializing your new puppy appeared first on Compatible Companions Dog Services.

Many people are calling in with housebreaking problems and/or problems with the dog damaging their belongings when the dog is alone in the house. All of these problems can be eliminated with the use of training a dog with a crate. Using a crate is not cruel. It approximates a den, which dogs in their wild state slept in for hundreds of thousands of years. Modern dog maintains the “den instinct” which is why using a crate is so effective in housebreaking. A dog will not soil where it sleeps. This is a throwback to the days when dogs were predators in the wild and needed safe places to sleep and rear their young. If they eliminated in the den, other predators would seek them out through the scent and prey upon the young and infirm.  

Thus, dogs will not soil their sleeping quarters if they can possibly avoid doing so. The trick is to make the sleeping area small enough so the modern dog cannot use one end as a bathroom and the other end as a bedroom! A crate should be large enough so the dog can lie down and turn around in a tight circle. If it is big enough to lie down in, it will be big enough to sit in. Crates can cost anywhere from $30 to $200 and up, depending on your budget. If you have a puppy that will grow into a large dog, I suggest buying a full-size crate and using a piece of plywood or other material to block off a section for the puppy.  

This can be expanded as the puppy grows. Crates must never be used to punish! The dog has to look at the crate as his special place where he is safe and happy. Many breeders crate train their puppies from the time they leave the whelping box. If you are purchasing your puppy from a breeder, ask if the puppy has been introduced to the crate. Before bringing the puppy home take a blanket or towel to the breeder and ask to put this item in with the litter at night. The blanket or towel will then be permeated with the litter/mother scent and will make those first few nights we all dread much easier. When the puppy comes home it should take all of its naps in the crate and sleep there at night. The crate should also be used any time the humans in the house are too busy to keep an eye on the puppy.    

Keep in mind that puppies must relieve themselves before and within 15 minutes after eating, immediately upon drinking any water, after play, and immediately upon waking. Take the pup outside according to this schedule at first; never put the puppy out by himself! It just doesn’t work. Put the puppy on a leash and go to your designated potty area and standstill.  Say “Potty” in a happy tone of voice.  Let the puppy walk where it wants and as soon as it relieves itself outside praise it with “Potty, Good Potty”! Bring the puppy back in when you are sure it has finished.   

Sometimes you know the puppy has to go but the puppy is fooling around. Wait! Don’t bring the puppy in before it has done its business that is just asking for an accident and the puppy will be happy to oblige! Each time you put the puppy in the crate praise it and give it a treat. Never let the puppy out of the crate when it is making noise such as whining, crying, or barking. Correct it by saying “no! bad puppy!” and only when it has quieted should you let it out, with a “good puppy!”   

If you let the puppy out while it is making noise you are teaching it that making noise will get its attention and companionship, which is what it wants in the first place! This “mixed message” will be particularly difficult to straighten out in the middle of the night, when you want to sleep and the puppy wants to party! So be firm right from the start. Let puppy out only if it is quiet and never once you have put it in the crate for the night.  

Remember that puppy is going to be missing its Mom and littermates no matter where it sleeps and this includes your bed which I don’t recommend unless you sleep on rubber sheets in a boat! So, keeping in mind that the puppy will be upset whether he is in the kitchen, piddling on the floor and chewing the cabinets; or in the crate, put him in the crate! At least he will only be making lots of noise and not redecorating your house in Early Destructo!  

Many people put the crate in their bedroom where they can reassure puppy during the night. Some people prefer to put the crate, for the first few nights, where they won’t hear the puppy crying. There is nothing wrong with either plan. Don’t feed the puppy or give anything to drink (unless it is high, hot summer) after about 67pm. Exercise puppy lots in the evening. Wear a puppy out. Take puppy out as late as possible (11 pm works well). Take your time for this last outing of the night. Be absolutely certain the puppy is empty before putting it in the crate. Put the puppy in the crate with toys, the security blanket, and the old standbys loud ticking clock, hot water bottle, and stuffed animals with eyes, nose, etc. removed first. Praise puppy, say goodnight, and go to bed. Do not go back to a puppy until at least 3:30 or 4 am. By then puppy probably will have to go out for real. 

Puppy bladders and bowels are just not mature enough to hold it much longer than that. The early mornings come with puppy territory, like 2am feedings and babies. By about 5 months the puppy’s bladder should start to mature and puppy will start sleeping later. But for now all you can do is grin and bear it! When you take puppy out at this uncivilized hour do so with a minimum of conversation. Puppy should know that this is not playtime. When he does his business outside praise him as usual and bring him right back in, put him back in the crate and go back to bed. Don’t go back to him now, either. Puppy should be fine now until you are ready to get up at your regular time. Just remember: Once you have put puppy in the crate don’t go back to him! If you do, you are teaching him that making lots of noise will get him what he wants  your company. Puppy must learn that nights are for sleeping and his sleeping place is the crate. Once he learns this lesson  and it will take about 24 nights  he will begin to look on the crate as his special place.        

Eventually, as he becomes more accustomed to it, he will look on the crate as a refuge where he can get away from running kids, crazy cats, out of control vacuum cleaners, or whatever inhabits his little bit of the world with him. One day you will look for the puppy and find him, curled up in the crate where he went by himself to catch a few zzz’s! Once you have used the crate properly  never to punish!  your house will be safe from “puppy destructo raids” and your puppy will be safe from the myriad dangers that lie in wait for lonely, bored, and curious puppies such as chicken bones or other inedible “treats” from the garbage; chocolate left in reach of dogs which is a poison to dogs; electric wires that could electrocute a puppy if chewed; cleaning solutions; toilet bowl cleaners; poisonous house plants; small toys or socks that could be swallowed, etc. I could go on and on! So please, use the crate to help with training your dog!  

You will wonder how you ever survived without one and your puppy will have a safe place to be when left alone. Please remember that puppies are like babies when it comes to bladder and bowel control. Don’t ask the puppy to “hold it” longer than is physically comfortable and try not to leave a dog crated longer than 56 hours at a time during the day if you can avoid doing so.  

If have more questions about how to train your dog with a crate please contact us and we be happy to help.

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Does your dog have a negative association with the car? 

First, throwing up in the car, tensing up, or just nervous about going on a ride. Put the dog on medication, and now the dog will get a weird woozy feeling. I suggest you give him a new perspective on the car. 

Is your dog treat or toy motivated? 

When I say “T,” you use the word treat or toy. Verbal encouragement is a great way to teach dogs how to learn behavior. Therefore, When the dog earns the reward even if the dog takes baby steps can be enormous in calming a dog of this anxious behavior. If the dog is hesitant, then do not push or prompt him; just let him be and repeat the previous exercise over or back up a step. One reason why dogs get nervous with cars is they are reacting to our emotions. For example, If you are running late or in a hurry, your heart rate is up, which causes your blood pressure to rise, breathing patterns are different, etc. that dogs will sense by practicing with this exercise during a time when your much calmer will make your dog calmer. 

To start the exercise, we need to desensitize the dog of current behaviors he associates with the car. We need to associate the keys with a reward to help curb anxiety. It would be best if you stopped having your keys out, ready to go before you leave the car, or get into the vehicle to help change the dog’s behavior.

The first step is to start in the house, get your keys out, jingle them once, and give him his “T” (treat or toy). Then, ignore him for 1 minute. Next, rattle the keys again, and reward the dog with his or her “T” (treat or toy). This repeated jingling of the keys helps dogs associate an action with a particular item or thing that means we are doing something. For example, leash means let us go for a walk or go for a car ride; mom’s purse and no leash means she’s leaving; dad’s jacket or hat means he’s leaving, and so on. 

Repeat the exercise in every room of the house until you reach a place that you’re not likely to be going for a car ride. He should be very excited about the jingle of the keys by now, if not, then keep working on the exercise. 

Finally, once the dog is looking forward to the jingle, go to the door leading to the car and then open and close the door while jingling the keys and rewarding the dog with his T (treat or toy). 

Still not freaking out? 

Great, onto the next part. Walk around your car, open and close doors, jingling the keys, and rewarding the dog. Leave a door open and put his “T” (treat or toy) inside the door on the floor where he can get it. Do that 3 or 4 times, close the door, go back in the house, and ignore him. 

The next time you take him out there, put him in the car with you (don’t turn the car on yet), jingle the keys and reward the dog. Let him sit and relax or walk around. Repeat the exercise several times, then go back to the house with him and ignore him. I’m sure by now, you can see the progression in the dog’s responses. It’s slow but well worth it not to flood the dog with bad feelings. 

I had to do this with my German Shepherd years ago. He was not treat motivated but highly toy motivated. I would throw his frisbee into the car, and he would get it and bring it to me. I even threw it through the car out the other door. He ran through the car to get his frisbee. Next, I took him on very short rides, down the block. Stopped, got out, and played with him. (no playing in the car now as I want him to anticipate going to the new location.) This method worked on him and several other clients. 

If this exercise doesn’t seem to work for you, email me, and I’ll talk you through it.    

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